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1999 and 2003 BMW K1200LT Information
TrophyRider:
Has anyone had experience with 1999 and or 2003 BMW K1200LT's? I believe they are essentially the same bike. I have an opportunity to buy both for $3000 for the pair. 1999 has 65000 miles, 2003 has 45000 miles. Anything I should be paying special attention to when I go look at them other than the normal used bike stuff? They both look good in the photos but we all know how that goes. I'm slightly concerned with the mileage, but the price more than reflects the mileage.
STLTHMSTA:
2 bikes for $3000? Sounds like a project to me, but if you're good with that it could be doable. I don't know any details about the BMW's to look for but longevity is the reputation or it could be expensive. TM
brider:
BMW = Break my Wallet. Be careful.
TrophyRider:
--- Quote from: brider on January 15, 2023, 02:20:30 pm ---BMW = Break my Wallet. Be careful.
--- End quote ---
I will. Looks like the final drive is the weak point on these. My guess is if they haven't failed at 45,000 or 65,000 miles they probably won't. I will probably sell the higher mileage, older bike. Or keep it for parts...
wengland:
Correct - the final drive is a weak spot in those years of bikes. Typically an $800 part (last time I checked) for a new or properly rebuilt final drive; fairly simple to replace in your garage, if you are used to working on shaft drive bikes.
They also have dry clutches, mounted in such a manner that you have to split the bike in half to replace. Not something for the new mechanic. ($1,600 at Engle Motors BMW, Kansas City, last time I checked). As with any old bike, service history and being currently ridden are the most important part. With a BMW, having a master mechanic and / or very good BMW MOA club in the area is very helpful.
Would I buy one if I lived in Dodge City, KS? No. Would I buy one in Kansas City? Yes.
Would I love to have one? Yes - they are absolutely brilliant to ride, but brutal when they quit.
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