It’s late November here in northern Kentucky and while it has been a long and very mild Fall season the times they are a changin’. Today the weather forecast is for high’s in the low 40’s and that is what is predicted for the next 10 days also. Winter is settling in. Further north they are talking about snow to the tune of feet, not just inches, and it’s already been snowing that way in the western mountains. In other words, for much of the country the riding season is over, and bikes are being put away until Spring. If that is where you’re at then there are certain steps that you should take so that your pride and joy(s) come out of hibernation in good shape and ready for another great riding season.
1) Wash the bike.
Never put your bikes away dirty. It’s not just about appearances; it’s about avoiding rust and corrosion. Dirt traps moisture, and moisture is a death sentence, especially for anything metal! Before storage, I always give my bike a thorough wash with a good-quality motorcycle cleaner, scrubbing every area. And drying? That’s just as critical. I use a dedicated heated blower to get water out of the tight spots, like under the seat and around the chain. A quick coat of wax afterward gives the paint some extra protection, and I hit any exposed metal with an anti-corrosion spray like ACF-50. It’s like a spa day for your bike before its long nap. Don’t forget the chain. Clean it with a good chain ACF-50, dry it thoroughly, and apply a fresh coat of chain lube or wax after you heat the chain up. You can either ride around for a few minutes or keep the bike on its center stand, or wheel stands and let the bike idle in first gear for a minute or two. Leaving a chain dirty and dry over the winter is a recipe for rust. I’ve continually got over 20K from chains, and I attribute this process to it (plus cleaning/waxing every 500 miles on street bikes, and 250 or so on my adventure bikes).
2) Fill the motorcycle with all the fluids it needs.
If you think you can leave that old oil in there all winter, you’re asking for trouble. Used oil is full of contaminants that can cause havoc on internal parts if left sitting. I always change the oil and filter before storing the bike. It’s a quick and easy step that ensures your engine isn’t sitting in a sludge bath for months. Some friends still do fresh oil changes in spring, which is still better than doing nothing at all. I also check my clutch and brake fluids, changing them if they’re dark or if the clutch lever feels heavy. For those of you with liquid-cooled bikes, check your coolant while you’re at it. Make sure it’s rated for the temperatures your garage/storage area might hit. There’s nothing fun about discovering frozen coolant has cracked something expensive. Antifreeze is cheaper than engine repairs.
3) Add fuel stabilizer.
Gasoline doesn’t age like fine wine; it ages like milk. If left untreated, varnish will coat your fuel lines and injectors. I fill my tanks to prevent condensation, then add a fuel stabilizer like STA-BIL. Running the engine for a few minutes ensures the stabilizer gets through the entire system. For carbureted bikes, I go one step further and drain the carb bowls to prevent gumming. I learned that lesson the hard way multiple times.
4) Disconnect/Maintain the battery.
Batteries are another weak spot. Unless you enjoy replacing them every spring, you’ll want to keep yours charged. You can either remove the battery from the bike and connect it to a smart charger or add a pigtail to connect directly to the trickle charger like a Battery Tender. These keep the charge at an optimal level without overdoing it. If your bike has a lithium battery, make sure your charger is compatible, or you’ll fry it faster than you can say, “expensive mistake.” I used to pull batteries out, which was good because I’d keep them in a warm basement on a charger. But since I will want to start it from time to time (see tip #7) I find it easier just to leave the battery in the bike and have it hooked up to a battery tender.
5) Cover/Plug the exhaust pipes.
Critters! Critters are looking for places to winter themselves. A nice dark warm exhaust pipe is a dream condo for many little critters like mice and chipmunks. A piece of cloth wrapped around the exit and held in place with a rubber band or bungee cord works wonders. While wea re on the subject of critters, traps, mothballs, etc. around your bike might just keep those critters away from other parts of your bike.
6) Inflate the tires and spin them occasionally.
Tires are often overlooked, but they shouldn’t be. Flat spots are inevitable if you leave your bike sitting on its tires for months. I inflate mine to the recommended PSI, and I keep the sportbikes on paddock stands and all bikes with a center stand on the center stand. No stands? No problem. Rotate the tires every few weeks to distribute the weight. Bonus points if you park on a piece of carpet or rubber mat instead of cold concrete. Make rotations a ritual, also. It’s always an excuse for me to head to the garage and have a few drinks. Remember what I said in an earlier article about using a garage mat? If you can, park your bike on some kind of mat. If you don’t have a mat, use some carboard or wood. Any insulation is better than none.
7) Start it up on a regular basis.
Now before you do that, remember to remove the exhaust pipe covers and reconnect the battery if you’ve disconnected it or removed it. But once you’ve done that, I recommend starting your bike and letting it reach operating temperature. Make sure that where you store the bike is in a well-ventilated location. Indoors and out of the weather preferably. Don’t start the bike up inside your house! If it is in a garage or shed, open the door first. You want to run it long enough for the oil and coolant to get warm and circulate. How often should you do this? As often as you like. Me? I do it weekly.
8) Use a breathable cover to keep it clean and prevent moisture.
Don’t cheap out here. A high-quality, breathable cover will protect your bike from dust and moisture while letting it breathe. I’ve used cheap tarps in the past, and let’s say they do more harm than good. You can find these on-line or at most dealers. A good one will last you through many years. If you’re storing your bike in a garage where people and cars move in and out on a regular basis, this might just keep your paint and chrome from suffering an accident too.
9) Check for security and damage regularly.
Even though your bike is in hibernation, it’s good to check on it every few weeks (again, another excuse for drinks with friends). Look for signs of moisture, tire pressure loss, or rodent activity. Spin the wheels, check the cover, and give everything a quick once-over. These small check-ins can save you from nasty surprises in the spring. When you start the bike up and let it run, check for fluid leaks. And it never hurts to add some chain lube from time to time.
Why Proper Storage Matters
All these steps might sound like a lot, but they’re worth it. There’s nothing like rolling your bike out in spring, firing it up, and hitting the road without worrying about whether it’ll break down on you. Proper winter storage isn’t just about maintaining your bike; it’s about maintaining your sanity as a rider. Nothing kills the joy of that first spring ride faster than a dead battery or gummed-up fuel system.
And if storing your bike makes you feel down, here’s another idea: travel somewhere warm and rent one! It’s the perfect way to scratch the riding itch while keeping your own bike in perfect winter slumber. Sites like Twisted Road.com and many dealers in warm weather cities make renting a bike for a day or a week ultra easy and fairly inexpensive. Don’t want to rent and want your own? We can talk about trailering later, but I’ve headed out south more than once with a bike on a trailer behind my SUV and not stopped until the weather was nice enough to ride. Sometimes you just have to do what you need to do to remain sane!