BY MRS. DANTESDAME
So you want to ride in Europe. Excellent! But now what? There are a lot of resources online that go over some of the basics, and I will too. But I hope to add a little personal touch that tells you something the others haven’t. Let’s start at the beginning: what kind of trip do you want to take?
Tour group or solo rider?
This really depends on a few factors:
– How much time do you have?
– How much money do you have?
– How much “adventure” do you want?
There are pros and cons to each type of trip through Europe, and it is a highly personal decision. For me, the third point is the most important one: regardless of money and time, it is the type of holiday that you want that should drive your final decision.
For some of you, it might be your first time to Europe and you are unsure of “how things work”, or concerned about the languages, currency and even the rules of the road. Or it could be that you don’t want to have to think about things: someone else is there who knows the good roads, the good hotels, the good restaurants. They know the local conditions and customs. You pay your money and everything is provided for: the bike, the support vehicle, the guide, the rooms and meals. Your guide might be full of information about historical locations or events. If you run out of gas, someone is there to bring you a canister of fuel. Or worse: if there is an accident, you have someone who knows how to respond and who to call. Going with a tour group can also provide a ready-made group of like-minded people. At the end of the day, you can sit around at your mountaintop hotel and relive the day’s ride, or talk about previous or future trips.
Or you can go it alone.
There are many places in Europe that rent motorcycles for days or weeks at a time. Air Canada even offers a special deal of shipping your motorcycle with you on the plane. But renting is easy: if you go with a reputable agency, you’ll get a late-model bike that is set up for the type of riding you want to do, recently serviced and with the required documentation. A couple of the rental places that I am aware of are near Zürich and Milan, two locations that are easy to get to, and fun to ride from.
The benefits of riding without a tour group are some of the cons of riding with one. You have the freedom of riding which ever roads you want, as many times as you like and at whatever pace you prefer. You are the boss of your own time. Want to hit the road early? Go for it. Want to keep riding well into the evening? Go for it. Don’t like the people you’ve met? Go somewhere else. Of course you’re also losing out on your interpreter, but perhaps you embrace the challenge of trying to communicate with someone using only your hands and a couple of words.
To be honest, I have never joined an extended motorcycle tour group. My only experience with any type of guided motorcycle ride was a one day, off road adventure in Spain. Although even just that one day give me an insight as to what it might be like for me on a two wheeled organized holiday. I loved that our guide knew the roads and which trails to take, and I had only to follow along. We passed through forests and farmlands and crossed a few streams: all places I wouldn’t have found on my own. But I really chaffed at not being able to stop to take photos, or slow down to admire a particular view, or even go more slowly when the track was rough. Yes, our guide seemed agreeable to making adjustments for my requests (there were just three of us plus the guide, and we were good friends), but when it came time to actually slow down, or stop, it just didn’t happen the way I wanted it to. By the end of the day, my resentment had slowly overwhelmed my appreciation and I was left with a negative view of the day.
This is not to say that I have sworn off motorcycle tour companies. I have ambitions to take a tour through several African countries and in a situation like that, I would appreciate the guiding hands of someone who knows the customs and laws, where the best riding is, and any areas that should be avoided. Knowing what I learned from my time in Spain, I now understand better what to look for in a tour company, to better meet my own personal needs.
It really comes down to you and what you want out of your holiday and I really can’t stress enough that this is where your decisions should start.
Best places to go
Ok, so now that you’ve decided to come to Europe for a motorcycle holiday, where do you go? Most motorcyclists come to Europe to do one thing: ride the Alps. This is an understandable goal, and one that I would not deter anyone from striving for. But keep in mind that Europe is more than just a single mountain range: there are numerous places to ride other than the Dolomites or the French and Swiss Alps. For example, there are the more laid back and empty roads through the Vosges (France) and Jura (Switzerland) mountains. The Pyrenees are spectacular and not nearly as crowded as the famous Swiss passes that we’ve all heard of. Northern Spain is a quiet wonder of mountains and ocean views. Croatia is more than just a coastal country, with mountains that climb dramatically from the shore and work their way to the Bosnian border. Romania, Hungary and Slovenia are full of excellent yet relatively empty roads.
One mistake that many people make when planning their European trip is thinking that they can hit half a dozen countries in one shot, ticking off passes on their list. While the continent is not that big, the travel time between cities isn’t as fast as one would expect. The little villages that dot the landscape are slow and unavoidable (unless you get on the motorway, but then what’s the point?). The mountain roads are narrow and twisty and while the speed limit might be posted at 90 kph, you’d often be hard-pressed to hit 70; and 60 is often a more reasonable pace. Trying to calculate a route on Google doesn’t account for the above very well, and you might find yourself scrambling to reach your daily destinations.
All of this assumes that you are coming to see the roads and the views. Cultural destinations are an entirely different barrel of fish, and one that will take careful planning on your part. Most non-motorcycle related destinations are in cities, and the cities can be chaotic to ride in. I myself avoid riding into the cities when at all possible. They add so much stress to a ride that any appreciation I might have had for them would be vanquished by the annoyance of dealing with the maze of streets, impatient drivers and thick traffic. That isn’t to say that there aren’t interesting things cultural places to see outside of the cities, though. The Vosges Mountains that I mentioned earlier parallel some of Alsace’s most beautiful villages in the heart of wine country. The Pyrenees are dotted with ancient hilltop fortresses and castles. And Northern Spain has a food and wine culture that is worthy of a visit on its own merits.
Best places not to go
I am not really one to shy away from riding somewhere just because someone from the Government told me that it is dangerous. Sure, I’ll take their caution under advisement, but I’ll also do my own research into to the what and why of the warning. That being said, I cannot think of anywhere in Europe that I would deter someone from visiting.
Your own tolerance level of what you think is dangerous will affect how you see things, but on a broad scale, Europe is a very safe place. Of course you should always be aware of your surroundings and listen to your gut instinct. But on the other side of the coin, be prepared to embrace the differences between European and North American cultures. If you eat only at McDonalds and stay in your safe hotel room, you’ll miss out on the experience of “life in Europe.”
Luggage / what to pack
This is another personal decision. If you are renting a bike, then you’re limited to the space in the luggage that it comes with. You’ll need to take into consideration the range of weather that you are likely to encounter during your journey. Although unlikely in the peak of summer, snow can fall in the high Alps almost any time of the year; rain is more likely. Fog, sunshine, strong winds and high temperatures are all on the plate for any ride in Europe. The gear you chose should be easy to layer, so that you can adjust to whichever conditions you encounter.
Besides your riding gear, you should bring something comfortable to wear in the evenings or days off the bike. Again, layers that double as both riding and “civilian” clothes are your best options. Having comfortable off-bike clothes means that you’re more likely to hike up to that castle – and enjoy it. And when it comes time to pack the so-called “essentials”, It is important to consider that just because you own it, doesn’t mean that you need to bring it. You’re better off not bringing something “just in case”, saving yourself not only room, but also weight. European stores sell just about anything you could possibly need, even if it might have a different name, in the case that you find that you can’t live without it.
Many of today’s electronics can be charged via USB plugs, making it easy to keep yourself connected and the camera clicking. I recommend picking up a simple-but-slightly bulky universal plug adaptor, so you can carry one item instead of numerous small ones. Plus, this way you’ll be sure to have things covered in case you find yourself wandering into an unexpected country.
From here on out, I am assuming that you’re going to rent your motorcycle locally, or bring your own bike with you. The information below is something that any reputable tour group should handle for (or with) you. But if you’re on your own, then you should take note of some additional nuggets of information.
Fueling your ride
Most gas stations in Europe offer diesel, unleaded and premium unleaded. My husband and I had just started a trip and decided to fuel up in Italy with some premium. What we didn’t realize was that it was premium diesel. Our bikes were not happy about it, but we got everything cleaned up and running again. The point is: be careful which pump you chose. I’ve never had any trouble finding a premium unleaded fuel, but knowing which pump to use takes some consideration. Colors are a big hint, as unleaded tends to have green pumps, and diesel often has yellow pumps.
When you stop at a gas station with a human behind the counter, it is still a “pump first, pay later” culture. Once you figure out which pump to use and how it works, fill up your tank and then go inside and let them know the pump number. However, many stations outside of built up areas are self-service, meaning that no one is there to assist you if you have a question. The machines are there to take your money, of course, but not all of them offer an English translation of the steps, so it can be tricky to figure out what is supposed to happen next. I have skipped a fueling station because I couldn’t work out what I needed to do in order to get the fuel pump to start.
When it comes time to pay, the machines that I have come across have all taken credit cards – in fact, you’re more likely to find a machine that will take a card but not cash, than a machine that will take cash but not a card. Be aware that European cards use a chip and pin system, and that the standard US type of card (which requires a signature) can sometimes be unusable here. I understand that some US card companies are moving towards the chip and pin system, so it might be a good idea to check with your credit card company and see if they can give you a new card before you start on your trip.
Do you need a modern day translator app on your phone?
Parlez vous Francais? Sprechen Sie Deutsch? ¿Hablas español? While not everyone is a linguist, there is no reason to fear a foreign country simply because you do not know the language. Europe is a modern, well-connected place and many (I dare say, “most”) people know at least some English. This is very true in the cities but does get less common the further into the countryside you go.
In my experience, the people that I have come across have been very friendly and willing to help. They may say that they do not know English, but that is usually (not always) a type of modesty and underestimating their own abilities. Of course, there really are those people who don’t know any English, and when you need something more complicated than a bite to eat or a bed for the night, that is where a translation app on your phone can be handy.
Referring to our fueling problem in Italy, we were helped by a family that did not speak English. While we could communicate with a couple of words of French, it wasn’t enough to clearly work through the problem at hand. We found that Google Translate was not very effective – at least judging by the English translations of what they typed into the phone, and their looks of incomprehension at what I had typed. In the end, we eventually were successful in getting our bikes running again, but it was not a smooth process. Perhaps a good, quality translation app would have saved some time and frustration. But on the other hand, it was an experience made all the richer for having been able to work through it. And it also reinforced my idea that people are generally good and want to help.
21st century border crossings
Thanks to the Schengen Zone, getting through the EU countries is practically effortless. Leaving one EU country and entering another has the same fanfare as riding from Colorado into Wyoming: there are a few signs, but no one’s going to stop you and check your paperwork. Of course you should always have your passport and insurance with you, just in case. This lack of border checks is a little disappointing, as entering a new country should have the thrill (and a passport stamp!) as if you were entering a new world. But it is also a blessing, as there are no hour-long lines to wait in, or bureaucracy to deal with, or even bribes to pay. At most, you may be required to buy a vignette (a small sticker for your motorcycle) that allows you to use the major motorways of a particular country. These vignettes can be completely avoided if you plan on never using that country’s motorways, so I like to think of it as an optional expense. Some countries (such as Austria) give you the option of a short-term sticker, whereas other countries (such as Switzerland) provide only an annual sticker.
Speaking of Switzerland, while it is not part of the EU, it is recognized as part of the Schengen Zone. This means that you probably won’t be stopped at the border, but the borders are often manned, with the border patrol watching for the illegal transport of goods – and missing vignettes – so be prepared to show them your documents if asked.
If you travel further east or southeast, you may come into contact with countries that aren’t part of the EU, or only in a limited capacity. There you will be required to show your passport and insurance documents. If you plan on traveling through eastern Europe you should do some thorough research on the border crossing requirements shortly before you embark on your journey, as the rules can change without too much fanfare.
Insurance
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that you are required to have insurance when operating a vehicle in Europe. A good tour company will provide you with the basic coverage that you’ll need, although you can always beef up that coverage if you so desire. But if you’re on your own bike, or renting privately, you’ll need to source this insurance for yourself. As this insurance is not part of your normal insurance policy – and not available from them, either – you’ll need to do some shopping beforehand to find a broker who can help you out. You should purchase the insurance before you leave home so that it is in full effect as soon as you arrive.
This supplemental insurance for your bike (and yourself) is called “Green Card” Insurance, and it meets the minimum mandatory European liability coverage. The Green Card is an international certificate of insurance providing visiting motorists the minimum compulsory insurance coverage required by the law of the participating countries.
The Green Card system is currently comprised of 47 countries, including all 28 in the European Union, the additional countries that make up the European Economic Area (EEA), Switzerland, Russia and several countries in the Middle East, as well as others bordering the Mediterranean Sea. However, a Green Card is no longer required for travel to the EEA, Andorra, Serbia and Switzerland.
IDL/IDP
This refers to the International Driving License, which isn’t a license at all. It is correctly called an International Driving Permit, and is merely an official translation of your North American driver’s license. The IDP allows motorists to drive vehicles in international traffic without further tests or applications. It is also proof that the you possess a valid driver’s license from your home country. As the IDP is printed in 10 languages (English, French, Spanish, Russian, Chinese, German, Arabic, Italian, Scandinavian and Portuguese), it provides a translation of your license to anyone who needs to read it. Note that an IDP does not replace your driver’s license. As an added bonus, it will also act as an extra photo ID.
The IDP is easy to get from the AAA or AATA, and you can find the application forms on their websites. The IDP is not expensive to get (between $20-$25) and is valid for one year. However, if you’re traveling through the following countries, you don’t even need to bother with an IDP: Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Mauritius, Norway, Spain, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. There are other countries that recognize the IDP, but they aren’t in Europe so I didn’t list them here.
Carnet – You will not need a Carnet du Passage within Europe.
There is never enough time or space to write out everything that could be said about taking a motorcycle tour through Europe. In addition to the points I made above, here are a few random thoughts with which to wrap things up:
Most stores are closed on Sundays, close early on Saturdays and are not open late on weekdays. Some smaller shops close to the train stations may be open on Sundays/evenings if you really need something.
Speed cameras – you won’t get pulled over, but that doesn’t mean that you haven’t been caught. Any speeding tickets or other fines will be mailed to you later. Think of it as a little post-holiday souvenir. There is usually a cushion for a margin of error, but be warned that it can get very expensive, very quickly, when speeding through some European countries.
If you want to race, go to Nürburgring. European roads are generally in excellent repair, well-engineered and the drivers are aware and predictable. But this is not an invitation to speed your way through the countryside, nor drag a knee in the switchbacks.
Take photos, lots of photos. They will become your memories. They also help you to keep track of what you did and when, since the photos will be in the order you experienced them and have visual clues of place names, etc.
Keep a journal. Maybe not a full-on “my thoughts on everything”, but at least where you were and key points. On a multi-day trip in completely unfamiliar territory, these things can get surprisingly jumbled.
Above all: enjoy yourself. This is your trip, so make it one that you will cherish for years to come.